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Problem ved ca 2000 omdr


cosworth123

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Har ett lite Problem ved ca 2000 omdr, virker som om motor får ei slags turtallsperr der. Men kun når motor er kald.. Den stopper helt opp og begynner å skyte/smelle i eksos, slipper eg gassen igjen så går den helt fint igjen, gir eg gass så begynner den på igjen, bilen går fint an og kjøre opptil 2000 omdr. Når det er blitt mer varme i motor, kan eg dra den helt ut slik som motoren skal være, men jukker/jager ved 2-2700omdr..

 

(Lurer litt på vanntempsensoren?)

 

Noken som kan hjelpe??

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Motor:

2.0 yb 200 cosworth blokk overhalt og borret overdim-EBB

H-råder

Wossner smidde lomma stempler

longstuds-EBB

portet topp-Jensspeed

orginal kammer

garrat gt 3076r turbo

tial 44mm wastgate

custom grenrør

custom innsug

3" gasspjeld

r500 intercooler

680cc bosh dyser

custom fuelrail

Aeromotive bensintrykk regulator

walbro bensinpumpe

3,5"downpipe

custom 3"eksos

ånding v topp deksel

innovate lc-1 BB

16 raders oljekjøler

Bremset 475hk 553nm

Girkasse orginal mt75 alcon 6 paddle clutch

 

 

Pluggene er helt nye og har rett åpning, har fungert feilfritt siden april nå, så brgynte den nå når det ble regn/fuktigt i været.

Er ikkje datasprut

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Fordelerlokk og rotor er iorden, hadde dette av igår og gjorde det rent, sjekket for fukt, ingen forskjell..

Oki...tok du ut pluggkablene fra lokket? Der kan det være noe ****** med irr...eventuelt start opp bilen i mørket for se om det er overslag noen plass....ellers må du bare går runden på sensorener dine,spray alle stikk med kontakt spray,tydlig det er noe tempratur avhengig. Måle TPS signal osv.

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holder fremdeles en knapp på tenninga di..
Ser ikke du nevner noe ved oppgraderte tennings deler? Msd tennings forsterker? Kjører du chip?
Kan være så enkelt som at du har fått litt dårligere lading, så taper oppladninga av coilen seg BETRAKTELIG..
Hvilken AFR har du? v/problemet ditt?

 

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Denne var kjekk .. fikk den av en med for mange cossies..:-)

Ble bare rotete detta .. se på tråden min (nybygd cosworth tåler ikke gass)

NOTE: Some of these results can be affected by an alarm system or immobilizer. I have assumed the car has a 2.5 bar/3.0 bar map sensor. If SECS monitor is fitted, unplug it! (A faulty monitor or incorrectly fitted can cause engine not to run) 1) Ensure ignition is OFF. 2) Remove rear of ecu plug cover and insert plug back into ecu. 3) Turn ignition back on (do not start engine) 4) MAIN POWER CHECK: Check for DC voltage of at least 11.5V between ecu pins 19 and 20. 5) REFERENCE CHECK: Check for DC voltage of around 4.8 to 5.2V between pins 11 and 30. 6) MAP SENSOR CHECK: Check for DC voltage of approx 1.8 to 2.5V between pins 11 and 15. 7) THROTTLE CLOSED:4x4: Check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. 2WD: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. 8) THROTTLE FULLY OPEN: 4x4: Check for DC voltage greater than 4.5V between pins 11 and 17. 2WD: check for DC voltage less than 0.5V between pins 11 and 17. 9) Turn ignition off, unplug ecu, and turn ignition back on (don’t forget immobilizer if fitted) 10) CRANK SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 3 and 4 between 300 and 1200 ohms. 11) CRANK SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 3 and 4 while cranking engine - should be at least 2V. 11) PHASE SENSOR: Check resistance between pins 5 and 23 between 300 and 1200 ohms. 12) PHASE SENSOR: Check AC voltage on pins 5 and 23 while cranking engine - should be at least 1.5 - 2V. 12) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 18 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 13) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 35 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 14) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 33 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. 15) INJECTOR: Check resistance from pins 32 to 20 should be 2 to 5 ohms. NOTE: INJECTOR TESTS MAY NEED MAIN RELAY ENERGISED ON L1 and L6 ecus (link pins 1 and 10 first) 16) IGNITION TRIGGER: Read voltage between pins 24 and 25, should be at least 4.5V. 17) IGNITION TEST: BEWARE DANGEROUS VOLTAGES ON PLUG/COIL LEADS. Quickly link pins 24 and 25 on and off this will FIRE the ignition coil. Rotate dizzy by moving car in gear to point rotor arm at one plug lead and remove spark plug (earthing it on chassis or engine) to see spark. Try for each plug in turn. Or remove king lead at dizzy and place end within 1 centimetre of earth to see a big spark. 18) Place a temporary wire link from pin 1 to pin 10 (energises ecu power relay) - you should hear a click. 19) Quickly link pins 19 to 28 to test fuel pump runs. 20) COOLANT TEMP: Check resistance pins 29 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp) 21) CHARGE TEMP: Check resistance pins 31 and 11 for 800 ohms to 5000 ohms (depends on temp)Unplug the ecu and turn the ignition on. If the fuel pump runs the relay has been wired to run permanently or the relay is jammed. However, if the pump is running continuously, this WILL NOT stop the car from starting.Some chips don’t drive the fuel pump relay output properly as this is used for other features like ALS etc.... (PECTEL/AHMED chips mainly). In these situations, the pump is rewired to run continuously. If however, the pump is wired correctly and working properly, if it runs continuously when the ecu is plugged in only, then the ECU and/or chip may have failed.

Edited by VDtuning

Bedre med en liten kjapp en , enn en stor slapp en..

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