Ørjan G

Da e mykje meir enn berre 1. Ray Hall solgte Autronic før å sjå ka han he gjord. http://www.turbofast.com.au/ ViPEC fuel injection, and engine management systems, were developed for Ray Hall Turbo Pty Ltd to fill a gap in the market, for ECU that were reliable, powerful, easy to tune and having features that worked correctly. ViPEC is willing to listen to what the market wants, and is dedicated to giving customer excellent support. http://www.vi-pec.com/

Kvifor da? Ser ut te verta altfor dyrt elle dårleg: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=714617

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-DSS-RA3...50898QQtcZphoto

E da ein motor med llm eller map sensor? Kan vera ein øydelagd pakning so han sug falsk luft. Du kobla vekk ledningen frå tomgangsreg og justera på tomgangskruen te rett turtal.

Da enkla e ofta da besta.

http://perana.org/sapphire.asp

Legg ut nåke ymse info før vaksne. http://www.moranav6racing.com/category.html?CategoryID=38 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCH-0437502047/Application/?prefilter=1 http://www.agap.se http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Catalogs...LobeCatalog.pdf SMR31 Kamaxel för "vipparmsmotorer". Avsedd för hydrualiska ventillyftare. Vid mekaniskt mätspel 0,5 mm är durationen 240° och kamlyftet 7,2 mm SMR3 Specialkamaxel för stötstångs- och vipparmsmotorer. Framtagen för moderat trimning av B20 och Opel. Används även till Toyota Starlet och Ford V4-V6 i rallytrim. Kamaxel-duration 275° vid 0,4 mm spel. Kamaxellyft 7,9 mm Nockvinkel : instämplad Rekommenderad grundinställning: Insug- och -avgasventilen skall vara lika mycket öppna vid TDC Ventilspel: Som original till respektive märke. SMR21 Specialkamaxel avsedd för "vipparmsmotorer". Mest använd till Opel och Volvo B20. Fordrar t.ex. 2 st Weber DCOE eller liknande. Kan klassas som "snäll rallykam". Ger i en välpreparerad motor ett mycket brett register från c:a 3000 till 7000 rpm. Kamaxelduration 290° och 8,6 mm kamaxellyft vid 0,40 mm spel. SMR23 Specialkamaxel för "vipparmsmotorer". STÅHLMOTORs mest omtyckta tävlingskamaxel till Opel cih och Volvo B20. Har i samtliga av oss och flera andra trimmares motorer givit bättre både effekt och registerbredd. Särskilda monteringsanvisningar måste följas. Kamaxel-duration 298° och -lyft 8,6 mm vid 0,40 spel. Vanligen bästa inställning: Insugventilen öppen 1 - 1,5 mm. mer än avgas vid TDC. Grenrör och avgassystem måste vara anpassat efter önskat effektuttag. K16 260/108/12.0/1.5 /0,40 / 2000-6000 K17 272/108/12.0/2.0 /0,40 / 2500-6500 K18 284/108/12.0/2.7 /0,40 / 2500-6500 K19 296/108/12.0/3.4 /0,40 / 3000-7500 K23 308/108/12.0/4.3 /0,40 / 3500-8000 H3 312/105/12.5/4.3 /0,40 / 3700-8200 M13 320/104/12.9/5.1 /0,40 / 4000- P13 276/109/11.2/ hyd. 2000-6000 Y12 288/112/11.1/ hyd. 2500-6500 X1 284/109/11.7/2 hyd. 3000-7500 Turb 280/114/10,9/1,5 2500-6500 http://www.camcraft-cams.com/index.php?page=selecting-a-cam Customcam: http://jonescams.com/custom-camshafts/ Om du montera turboane lågt ved sio tå clutchuset, Bilteamapumpa Art nr 25-987 Pris kr. 999,00. Vann-/dieselpumpe Selvsugende elpumpe for pumping av vann eller diesel. Velegnet for pumping av vann, som lensepumpe for båter eller for pumping av diesel (viskositet 2~5,35, temp. 37,8 °C, med laveste flammepunkt +55 °C) mellom to tanker. Pumpehus og pumpedeler i bronse. Tåler kortere tids tørrkjøring. Innløpssiden utstyrt med in-line filter. IKKE beregnet for kontinuerlig drift. TEKNISKE SPESIFIKASJONER Volt: 12 V Sikring: 10 A Strømforbruk: ca. 11 A (ved 2 bar) Kapasitet: 14 l/min. (ved 2 m trykkhøyde) Trykk: 2 bar Slangetilkobling: R ½" rørgjenge Vekt: 1,5 kg Mål: 160 x 166 x 95 mm (lxbxh) https://www.burtonpower.com/product_main.as...orth%20manifold http://www.heavydutyenginekits.com/bearing/ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-DSS-RA3...50898QQtcZphoto http://www.ferriday.co.uk/performance/powe...6_cologne.shtml Ny bærbar PC med serial RS-232 inngang, nydele te mapping tå datasprut: http://www.komplett.no/k/ki.aspx?sku=38780...led#ProductTabs Alternativ; USB te RS-232 adapter: http://www.clasohlson.no/Product/Product.aspx?id=34051163 Maxxtuning seie at deria e best: http://www.maxxtuning.se/index.php?id=50&sub=15 Adapterdrivar te vista: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;form=KEYWORD Vista usbserial dosbox halteche6k: Fleire muligheta for betre tenning: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku Jacobs: http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?p=910585 http://www.raceindustry.com/MARKETPLACE/pr...036&catid=0 Steike gode coila: http://www.accel-ignition.com/pdf/CoilsGM.pdf http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info....products_id=277 Kopling: http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info....oducts_id=16012 http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info....oducts_id=16015 http://www.034motorsport.com/product_info....oducts_id=16017 DOCHstempler smidde Accralite: http://www.accralite.com/accralite/Search/...p?part=1285xc86 truehorsepower ærligeffekt mchp: http://www.factorypro.com/dyno/true1.html http://ausinjection.com/downloads/High_flo...tor_Catalog.pdf World S/R 2,9 topplokk. http://www.who-sells-it.com/images/catalog...7/pdf_11817.pdf Quick steering: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/SMALL-BODY-2...KENER,8280.html Audi S1antilag http://www.bufkinengineering.com/Umluft.htm Gearolje til ragrace med manuell kasse. "Greppar" synk ringen bra. Cougar 600-75W. http://www.lube-tools.se/pdf/600S.pdf http://www.lube-tools.se/ Forgassarar: http://www.v-performance.com/products/air_fuel.html GIK teoridel: http://www.gikturbo.se/pdf/teoridels.pdf GIK produktdel: http://www.gikturbo.se/pdf/produktdels.pdf Gode "Batland-spec."-deler: Korrekt turbo BSRT325turbo : http://www.raceinfo.no/temp/Turbonetics%20Volvo.jpg Korrekt dumpvalve: http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/shop/product.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=0&P_ID=384&strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1 Korrekt termostat til Turbomotor: http://shop.j-spec.se/sv/artiklar/racing-thermostat-volvo-940-20-_-23-1991-1999.html Korrekt coil til stiftetenning: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-140001 Korrekt coil til elektronisk tenning. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-380876 * Korrekt tenningsboks og tilhørende coil: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-6000-6305/overview/ KRAFTIG oppgradert stor vakumklokke. Alternativ 1: http://www.aldonauto.co.uk/shop/product.asp?strParents=&CAT_ID=&P_ID=800 Alternativ 2: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-6000-6425 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/maa-74777m For dem som ønsker Capasitive discharge tenning. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-6000-6466 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-730-0892 Korrekte pluggledninger: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/acc-170900c/overview/ http://www.best-itech.com/product.htm Korrekt clutch: http://www.bcb.no/Default.aspx?tabid=113&CategoryID=1551&Category2ID=1670&Category3=Forsterket+clutch&List=1&SortField=ProductName&Level=3&ProductID=21740 Bensinpumper: http://www.streetpower.se/32-bensinpumpar Bredbandslambda NTKsensor : http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_info.php/cPath/103_107/products_id/2334 Prestasjoner AT satser m.v. http://www.vikeboe.com/effektkurver.html http://www.norbond.no/nordic-nc-tynner-p-658-c-191.aspx Effektmåling med diverse kammer. http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/v/members/klr142_001/MY244/dynocharts/ Test av MSDHVC2 coil. 3,3 ms Dwelltid. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/740107-tech-the-944-951-ignition-system.html savarjens stskammer http://savarjens.weebly.com/index.html http://www.garaget.org/forum/viewtopic.php?id=188825 savarjens motorolje selges av lube tools i sverige: http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c352/142volvo/PICT0678_zps6355a9d9.jpg savarjans gearolje lube tools : http://www.lube-tools.se/ Elektrisk rettsliper: http://www.verkter.se/Slipmaskiner/Rakslipar/Rakslip-Hitachi-GP2S2.html http://www.verkter.se/Slipmaskiner/Rakslipar/Rak-Slipmaskin-Makita-GD0600.html Jacobs http://info.prestoliteperformance.com/accel-instructions Hallsensor: https://www.elfaelektronikk.no/elfa3~no_no/elfa/init.do?item=73-490-38&toc=0&q=73-490-38 Magneter: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=168 En korrekt satt opp og justert AT sats starter kald som varm, akkurat slik: Her med D-kam, Sierra Cosworth 4x4 turbo og en kundeforgasser: Tenningskurver Volvo B19ET B21ET B21A http://www.raceinfo.no/temp/Volvo%20Tenningskurver.JPG Innsugsmanifold til 2 x dobble forgassere med integrert vakumstasjon til bremseservo, ladetrykksmåler, dumpvalve m.v. http://www.mangoletsimanifolds.com/manifolds/volvo.html Andre nyttige linker: Haltech skandinavia Sverige http://shop.pbz.se/se/motorstyrning/ Tenningsmodul: http://www.nology.com/module.html Eksostempsensor: http://thesensorconnection.com/egt-probe-thermocouples/sensors/exhaust-gas-temperature/egt_individual_harness_probe.shtml Dragracekalkulator: http://www.hotrodpitstop.com/tool.php#0 Meanhorse powertuning BSRT vccn

Sjå på sio te pipercams. Da vert 181 hesta på 15 psi lading.

Throttle body betyr gass spjeld. 2,8 motorane he mykje større gass spjeld enn 2,9 motorane.

Datta e kjekt å veta. 2.9's WHAT WORKS!! Posted by Pat. First off I wrote this for those of you serious about making as much power possible without having to have a NASA computer with you or a team of engineers. Lets start off with the air filter, first off buy a K&N or equivalent, cones are better since they have more surface area in which to pull in air. If you don't want to buy a high flow air filter of some sort you might as well stop reading this now because your not very serious about power. Next on induction if the throttle body, this is a relatively simple choice, the ones on the 86-87 2.8's are much larger and basically your only bolt on piece and tend to increase power in the 3k and up range, without one of these I would find it very difficult to make much power normally aspirated, so I would include this on the must have list. now you can modify the 86-87 TB by sharpening the throttle blade edges, shaving the throttle shaft etc. if you think you need more cfm, also check that they open up all the way, I did have one that didn't. Next is the upper intake, here is a mod that I just kinda stumbled on while goofing around one day cleaning my intake out. the upper and lower intake are very poorly matched (real bad), so having these port matched and also taking some material of the inside turn of the upper intake to straighten the flow will make significant improvements across the entire RPM band, so much so that it really surprised me, it also made a surprising improvement in the exhaust tone (when an intake mod makes a noticeable change in exhaust tone you know you changed something pretty substantial). I would also put this on the must do list because this is a rather substantial bottleneck. Before I get to the lower intake let me also recommend phenolic spacers between the upper and lower intakes, this is a non heat conductive material that keep the heat from the heads lower intake etc. from finding there way up to the upper intake, thereby keeping the upper intake substantially cooler, and I already explained why that helps above. Now the lower intake, this one I have a hard time telling you how much gain you get out of doing some port work on the lower since I did the headers and lower intake at the same time, but let me say it's probably worth your while, while you have it out to port match the lower ports to the heads, make them slightly smaller than the head ports though, nothing is worse than running air into a wall, better to have it expand slightly. also it helps to reduce the injector bosses protrusion into the ports, so trim these down a bit but not so much as to reduce their integrity. there's some little restrictions in the lower as well that you can easily find by running you hand through them that you can smooth out to help flow. I don't count this as a must do but it won't hurt anything. Now the Heads, since 2.9 heads are relatively expensive, and there is a book out on how to port them I highly recommend Sven Pruett's book, "how to build and modify ford 60 degree v6's" this will run you through it, and gives you excellent advice on building the short block as well, plus Sven helps us out here so please support him. Now to the exhaust, fist off the stock exhaust manifold suck so what do you do about this problem, HEADERS. Now header choices for a 2.9 are relatively small, JBA's for the 4x4's, or JBA or Pacesetter for the 2wd's, both I believe come with an H or Y-pipe depending on year. these are one of those must have deals since their benefit is two fold and they do give you a noticeable power increase. Now for the ever controversial exhaust pipe size dilemma. Here's my recommendations, for full duals stay with 2" pipe as long as you can at least 3 or 4 feet after the h-pipe then you can go slightly larger for the muffler etc, but stay 2.25 or under if possible now to the ignition system, buy, a Crane PS-91 coil, then if you want to give it that little bit of extra effort get yourself an ignition box such as an MSD or Crane Hi-6, this will be more than enough ignition to feed a 2.9 to excess of 6 grand. I think that covered most of the basics, If I think of something later I will add to it. Pat.

http://www.topplocksverkstan.se/bilder/4-t...odesdiagram.jpg http://www.topplocksverkstan.se/fyrtaktsid7.html

Turbokam me 80 grada OL og 103 grada LCA? Her e da nåke hakkane gale.

2,8 EFI og 2,0 IS bruka nøyaktig dei same dysena so da går fint, men å bruka ein 2,0 V6 e berra tull. Hjelpalaus motor.

Då kjøre du ikkje E85, du kjøre E64.

Då skal du ikkje kopla han te før motoren går fint på tomgang hell. Du kjøre ikke grøndysechip og 3 bar map med blådyse vel?

Datta va løye. Kva turbo har du eigentleg og korleis e motoren trimma?

Du får prøva J-B Weld då. http://jbweld.net/products/index.php

No e da solgt, kjøpt og betalt.

Løysa tå slangen frå plenum te BTR å sjå om da kjem ut bensin.

Ingjen problem. Nipplane e skrudd so du kan berre skifta te AN. 9/16 UNF.

http://www.rceng.com/Fuel-Regulator-Malpassi-P45C9.aspx

Korleis går han når tomgangsmotor ikkje e tilkopla? Han ska gå heilt fint.

Du bremsa 380 med 320 sats, so 345 hk er nok te å bremsa 400. http://www.suhe-motorsport.de/suhe/cosworth-tuning.html

http://www.fmcn.no/forum/index.php?showtopic=38109

Du har PM.